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Not long after futuristic airport architecture has given way to monotonous autobahn scenery on the drive from Düsseldorf to Essen, the traffic begins to slow. One lane of the bridge across the river Ruhr is closed for repairs. “The structure of the bridge is steel,” explains the taxi driver. “For 40 years they have done nothing about corrosion.”
Essen is the ancestral home of the Krupp industrial dynasty, and the Ruhr was once one of Europe’s biggest steel-producing regions.
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