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VISIT MOROCCO AND you will hear a constant refrain that the country is changing. Once upon a time, Moroccans say, the king was the only person in the country who could make a decision. King Hassan II, who died in 1999, after a reign of almost 40 years, was renowned for the tight control he exercised over his subjects. Even when he played golf, he insisted on closing the course to other players and spectators.
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